Banff

The temperature today dropped from 36 degrees to 8 with snow predicted in Jasper. Rain last night too and it’s overcast and drizzly. After a week of flawless weather, I can’t complain – I think I chose a good day to be off the bike though.

Very excited about the next leg as suggested by Hank (and confirmed by others). Will head down the main motorway to Canmore then back onto dirt via the Smith – Dorrien Spray Trail. I’ll come back onto Hwy 40 about 100 km south at Kananaskis Lake and continue to Highwood Pass. At 2,206 m, it’s the highest paved road in Canada – should be fun. About 40 km south of here, I head down the Forestry Trunk Rd. I’ll be trying to get across to Elkford, but mountain ranges are probably going to get in the way. From Sparwood, there’s plenty of bush camping to the south and west, all the way across to Kootenay Lake. Will definitely be back on dirt by then. I’ll see how far I can get. I have to say, there are some distances to be covered in Canada.

Had a good yarn to a ranger this morning – bears are a big issue at the moment, Grizzlies and Black’s. While there are berries everywhere and they are interested in what people have in the campgrounds. Like humans, they’ll always take the ‘easy option’, especially when it comes to food. They are quite inquisitive and want to check out any smells – food’s number 1, but also toiletries, gas bottles, any unusual scent. They are fast and dangerous. I saw a dozen vehicles pulled up in the middle of the road yesterday, everyone out of their cars and excitedly yabbering and taking photos of a bear. Trouble was definately brewing!

Banff is awesome. Nice to see a bit of a larger town and, while touristy, it has plenty to offer. Had my first proper ribs last night. Baby back short pork ribs in BBQ sauce. Fantastic. Breakfast at Coyotes Grill and Delli – it’s small and packed. A bit of a wait for a table, but was good. It’s so simple to find interesting places to eat – just get off the main roads and head up alleyways. A bit like riding a bike – easy as.

Tonight will be the 5th out of 6 in the tent and it’s worked out perfectly. There’s always places to set up – it’s a 15 minute job by now. I’ve had an Exped mattress for a couple of years and it’s as good as my bed at home. It is a bit of a pain to pump up – that’s the only drag. I bought a new sleeping bag before I left – it’s lightweight but goes down to -5 degrees. Nights have been around +5 (could be a lot less tonight) so pleased I did – it’s comfy and has done a great job. I’m a bit embarrassed to say that I bought a pillow from home too. I’ve nearly always done this – I like a really thin one, so it doesn’t take up a lot of room. It’s my one true luxury and ensures a good nights sleep. This makes every day a whole lot better. 

Really was rotten weather today. Had decided to have a 2nd night in Banff and was pleased I wasn’t on the bike. It got down to 6 degrees, was raining all day and very windy. An amazing turnaround from 36 the day before – a drop of 30 degrees! There was absolutely no benefit getting on the bike other than to ride in and out of town. I ran out of data today – it lasted less than a week. It turned out to be cheaper to buy a new SIM, but was still 3 times dearer than Vancouver, despite taxes being a lot higher there. Regardless, reception is pretty weak and uploading photos is definitely a labour of love! I holed up in the tent for a few hours in the afternoon, did some writing and had a FaceTime chat with Sophie. Nice.

I also ended up replacing the long johns I posted home a week ago – stupid on reflection (and cost me $80 AUD). But, they’re now saying there could be snow on the Highwood Pass. I hadn’t planned on that, it’s going to test the summer gloves too!